I looked at the past four months posts in this conference for problems. I culled the answers to recurring problems from those posts and put them all here. I also searched the archives selectively looking for common threads about the air suspension.

What’s here represents most of the problems faced not only in the past four months, but in my recollection of participating in numerous online forums over the past 5 years, as well as my own experience working on several Marks of my own family, and others of friends.

One end of the car falls to the ground

This is indicative of a leak on the falling end of the vehicle. A sudden drop while driving is typically a catastrophic failure (blow out) and rare unless something happened like hitting a curb, pothole, or other car.

You may also experience a sudden drop while driving over rough roads, or when you flex the suspension a great deal at speed, this is because the leaks in the bags have been exercised and opened up.

Pictures of this are on Eddie's site here:
http://www.americanairsuspension.com/how-to%20leak%20test.htm
Check out the last two pictures.

Typically the air strut drops over time (while parked at work, overnight, etc.) This is a slow leak that should be fixed promptly. Failing to fix the leaking bag will result in your compressor having to pump too much air through it (to overcome that lost to the atmosphere) and will fail prematurely.

Instructions for doing this are here:
http://www.markviii.org/LOD2/strut.htm

The car fails to vent, you get a check suspension light but the car is high.
You get a check suspension light at speed on the freeway

This is because air can’t get out. The system adds air to compensate for loads and to lift the car to driving height. When it wants to remove air (load removed, speed vent on highway), it vents. The vent portion of the compressor frequently rusts closed due to moisture in the system (THIS IS WHY YOU MUST FIX LEAKS PROMPTLY) caused by leaking bags or atmospheric conditions.

The air compressor is located in a tray in the right front corner of the car. You can remove/replace it by either removing the bumper cover and working in front of the tire, or you can remove it by removing the splash shield and working in with the tire.

There are pictures and a discussion of the splash shield method here:
http://www.markviii.org/dcforum/DCForumID13/2178.html

There are discussions of the bumper method here:
http://www.markviii.org/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=read_count&om=409&forum=DCForumID13
http://www.markviii.org/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=read_count&om=148&forum=DCForumID13

Check air ride light 90 seconds after Key On.

The compressor has hit the thermal limit. It will not run any longer as a fail safe. This is usually indicative of a leak in the system, but could also be a worn out compressor that is not creating pressure. To search for leaks, use soapy water on all the air line connections (one at each wheel, four in the compressor) while the compressor is running. This is usually also accompanied by lower than normal ride heights or recent system service.

Check suspension light comes on immediately with key on, compressor does not run

This is usually a power/electrical issue. Quickly rule out the compressor relay by switching with the ABS relay. If this solves the problem, you need a new relay. Also check the fuse. The compressor can work while increasingly drawing more and more power to overcome internal failure, until it reaches the fuse limit. When that happens, you need a new compressor.

Now, the final comment is on air suspension and mechanics.

Many mechanics cannot troubleshoot this system. They are clueless. That includes Dealer and independents. You’ve got to find a shop that knows what its doing, if you don’t want to do the work yourself. Its not easy, but, then, many things with this car are not easy. You can’t just bring your car to any old shop for complex work. It requires someone with talent and skill. This goes for many components on this car, HVAC (blend door, head unit), Stereo system (weird JBL/Amps), Cooling system (weird thermostat position, cross over tube) Trans (1-2, Jmod, Mercon V) etc.
Scott

GEN 2 Cruiser

Are you just wanting instructions for swapping the whole pumpkin, or actually putting the ring and pinion gears in the pumpkin?

1997 Mark VIII
14.573 @ 93 MPH

There was a similar thread by BlackIce on the JMod, accumulators, and tranny pan change a couple of months ago. Both of these mentioned threads should be moved to a special section (like FAQ) or placed at the top of the "Board Category" where it would remain the first thread for an extended period of time. Otherwise the information gets lost and is apparently difficult to retrieve.

Input from a librarian might help improve the organization process used by this site.

http://www.markviii.org/psjs_faqs/04051030.shtml

Scott

Both. I've read lots of threads on changing out the pumpkin, but no pics.

>Well... this thread belongs in a Tech Help/FAQ section,
>otherwise it just gets buried with time.
>
>There was a similar thread by BlackIce on the JMod,
>accumulators, and tranny pan change a couple of months ago.
>Both of these mentioned threads should be moved to a special
>section (like FAQ) or placed at the top of the "Board
>Category" where it would remain the first thread for an
>extended period of time. Otherwise the information gets
>lost and is apparently difficult to retrieve.
>
>Input from a librarian might help improve the organization
>process used by this site.

Yeah, when I come across an informative thread that I may need for a future repair or modification I print it out like I did the JMOD one you mentioned. It's easier to find, but my file is about to outgrow the binder.

GEN 2 Cruiser

A compressor is $150, I think the spider valve is about the same.

http://www.americanairsuspension.com/MARK%20VIII%20BRAND%20COMP.htm

Scott