Oil Filter Gasket Replacment

First, I have access to a lift, air tools, large drain pans, flashlights/drop lights and an assortment of screw-type hose clamps to work with. I did work alone, and only used air tools to break the housing bolts loose. The rest was all done by hand. Air tools can save time, but can damage threads, bolts, and tend to be over-kill for this kind of job.

You'll need:
  1. 2-3 gallons of coolant(mixed to your pleasure)
  2. 6 qts motor oil
  3. 1 qt Mercon/ATF for power steering
  4. oil filter


I used an assortment of 1/4" drive metric "wobbly" sockets,  1/4" drive ratchet, and an assortment of 1/4" drive extensions(1 being 18" long), a 3/8" ratchet set with a 10mm, a 18" long 3/8" drive extension, and whatever you use to remove your oil pan drain plug, some nut drivers(5/16 and 8mm), a pair of pinch-clamp pliers(to remove factory hose clamps) or channel locks.




-start by draining the radiator via the pit cock.

-remove the oil filter

-remove the hose that leads from the power steering reservoir to the power steering pump


-the electrical connector that goes in to the power steering pump

-the oil pressure sending unit plug-in(elbow just pulls off stud)


*this can be tricky and frustrating since Ford felt it necessary to install pinch-clamps in a way that you can hardly get to the clasp to open/remove them. Take your time, be creative, and cuss often.

-remove the lower radiator hose from the thermostat housing

-remove the over-flow bottle hose that connects to the thermostat housing

-remove the hose that goes from the cross over tube to the top of the thermostat housing.

at this point, the thermostat housing is still attached to the oil filter housing via a short 3" long hose.


-using the 18" long 3/8" drive extension and a 10mm wobbly socket, come in from the L/F wheel well. There is a friendly gap between the K-member and the inner fender. You'll be able to remove 3 of the bolts this way. The bottom most bolt can be removed from under the engine bay. BE CAREFUL with the electrical wire harness that runs down behind the power steering pump so you dont damage the wires that lead to the power steering electrical connector and the oil pressure sending unit.

MESS ALERT! Coolant will flow from the engine block when you remove the oil filter housing in the next step.

Once the housing is free from the block, you can manipulate it to get to the two clamps that hold the hose connecting to the thermostat housing. I removed the clamp that is closest to the thermostat housing, and then separated the thermostat housing from the hose.

Now you can remove both the thermostat housing and the oil filter housing.


-be sure to clean the engine block where the new gasket will sit. I used carb cleaner and lint-free rags. I removed all traces of the old gasket imprint from the engine block, and the housing.


-the two hose clamps on the 3" stretch of hose between the thermostat housing. be sure to position the new clamps where you can easily get to them with a 5/16 nut driver or 5/16 socket.


I cant really tell you how to do this but what I did was use the 18" long 1/4"-drive extension with the 10mm wobbly socket with one of the 4 bolts already in it. Stage the tool, and put it somewhere where you can reach it with one hand. Reach up and place the housing close to the area it will install, then feed the gasket up with one hand. Use the ratchet with the extension and the bolt in the socket with the other hand. Place the bolt through one of the mounting holes in the housing, and slip the gasket on to the bolt as well. Gently guide it in to position, and hand-thread the bolt in a couple turns to hold the housing and gasket in place. Now you can feed the other bolts in through their respective holes, and "start" them.

Once they are all started, secure them all. Be sure to go back and double check them all.


Clean all the hose pipe ends of the thermostat housing, and spray some lube on them. Re-install thermostat housing and all hoses using new clamps.

Re-connect electrical connections to power steering pump and oil pressure sending unit.

Re-connect power steering reservoir hose with new clamp.

Install new oil filter. I did this last to be sure that none of the hose clamps would interfere with oil filter replacement in the future.



Clean the oil filter area of the k-member as best you can to prevent false alarms(hate to see you think your new gasket is leaking when it might be old fluid)

FILL FLUIDS(proper method to filling coolant):

Remove over-flow bottle and fill to capacity. Install cap.

Remove cross-over tube cap(above/forward of alternator) and fill to FULL.

Clean threads on cap and make sure o-ring is not damaged. If it is, replace it now.

Fill engine with motor oil.

Fill power steering reservoir to FULL.

START engine. Turn climate control to 90 degrees, and select VENT.

Watch the fluid(coolant) level through the cross over fill cap opening. Continue to let engine run until there is warm air in the cabin. This means the thermostat is OPEN and coolant is flowing through the heater core. Top off coolant at cross-over, and install cap. Do NOT over-tighten cap.

Check for leaks. Check oil level. Check power steering fluid level.

Re-clean entire work area under the chassis. This will help you spot any leaks, or remove any doubts that your job was completed successfully.

Re-install L/F tire.(duh)

You're done. Go clean up-you're a mess, and so are your tools.

I did this alone, but if you have an extra set of hands, be prepared to supply them with beverage of their choice.

Thanks to BlackIceLSC (Craig) for this writeup.

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